Finishing plays a key role in the industry because it adds specific aesthetic and technical qualities to each fabric, which can be chosen depending on the intended use of the materialIn the textile industry, finishing includes a set of chemical, physical and mechanical treatments which are executed after printing and enhancing substrates. These treatments improve the aesthetic qualities of fabrics and add specific technical properties, which may be chosen on the basis of the intended use of the material. It is a delicate stage of the production process, because each material requires a specific treatment and each market – whether interior décor, clothing or soft signage – has vastly different and ever-changing needs.

Mechanical treatments have been used since ancient times. Since then we have developed several chemical treatments, which use solutions specifically devised for the aesthetic and functional results one is trying to achieve. For example, the calendering process produces a glossy, smooth and compact effect by using heat. Embossing uses steam to “carve” drawings and decorations on fabric. Other treatments, such as grinding and brushing, produce a more isolating effect and guarantee a softer texture. This is because they lift the artificial layer of the substrate, which is run underneath a cylinder covered in an abrasive material. Gauzing produces thermal isolation, while sanforization prevents changes in the dimensions of the weave, which can happen following several washes. Chemical products used in finishing recipes add a series of technical properties to fabrics. Specifically, they can make fabrics waterproof, fire-resistant, or soft, they can stop materials from creasing, felting, and creating static, and much more.

Finishing processes are applied to textiles printed with both traditional and digital technologiesAfter printing, all fabrics have to undergo drying, washing and steaming processes. The drying stage determines the next steps. The evolution of inkjet printing processes and the increased volume of treated textiles pushed digital printing technologies to develop more sophisticated drying systems. These are constituted by hot air systems – where temperature varies depending on the fibres of the fabric and their resistance to heat – and drying chambers. The steaming stage sets the dyes into the textile fibres, using the joint action of chemical thickeners and auxiliaries activated by heat. Finally, the washing stage removes excess chemicals and dyes, optimising the product’s performance. Washing temperature may vary depending on the type of fabric and dye used. Waste waters contain high levels of nitrogen and dyes.

In recent years, there has been an increase in the use of pigment inks in digital printing for different types of products. This is because of the economic and environmental advantages brought by these chemicals: textiles printed with pigments do not need to be steamed and washed. This reduces the quantity of water, electricity and waste involved in the process. The elimination of these stages, also applied to traditional printing, has made the textile printing industry more accessible, enabling many printers to take new applicable opportunities without making further technological investments.